Example 1: moving from class E to class A

Car: Toyota Corolla 1.6 (base fuel consumption 7.5 l/100 km). Annual mileage: 20,000 km. Price of A-95 gasoline: 53 UAH/l.

Parameter	Class E tires	Class A tires	Difference
Additional consumption from rolling resistance	+7% to the base	Base	–7%
Real consumption	8.03 l/100 km	7.5 l/100 km	–0.53 l/100 km
Annual consumption (20,000 km)	1,606 l	1,500 l	–106 l
Fuel consumption (53 UAH/l)	85,118 UAH	79,500 UAH	–5,618 UAH
CO₂ emissions (2.37 kg/l of gasoline)	3,806 kg	3,555 kg	–251 kg/year

Conclusion: when switching from class E to class A, the owner of a Toyota Corolla saves about 5,600 UAH per year on fuel alone. If the difference in price between the tires is 1,500 UAH per set (4 tires), then the extra payment pays off in about 3.2 months.

Example 2: narrow vs wide tires

Let's consider the choice between two sizes for a BMW 3 Series: 195/65 R15 (narrow) and 225/45 R17 (wide, "sporty" look). Both in class B.

Parameter	195/65 R15	225/45 R17
Contact patch area (approx.)	~145 cm²	~175 cm²
Aerodynamic drag	Smaller	Larger
Rolling resistance	Lower	Higher
Approximate difference in fuel consumption	Base	+0.3–0.6 l/100 km
Set price (4 pcs.)	12,000 – 14,000 UAH	16,000 – 22,000 UAH

With a mileage of 15,000 km/year and a difference of 0.4 l/100 km, this is 60 l or ~3,180 UAH per year. Thus, choosing narrower tires not only reduces consumption, but is also significantly cheaper when purchased.

Formula for self-calculating fuel economy for tires

Annual savings (UAH) = (Cr1 – Cr2) × Car weight (kg) × g × Mileage (km) × Engine efficiency⁻¹ × Fuel price (UAH/l) / Heat of combustion (MJ/l)

Simplified version: difference of 1 class EU ≈ 0.1-0.15 l/100 km in the urban cycle, 0.08-0.12 l/100 km in the suburban cycle.

Tire pressure and its effect on fuel consumption

Tire pressure directly affects the shape and area of ​​the contact patch. At low pressure, the tire is excessively deformed, the contact area and hysteresis losses increase. According to Michelin and a number of independent studies:

• A pressure reduction of 0.2 bar (20 kPa) from the recommended value increases rolling resistance by 4–6%
• A pressure reduction of 0.5 bar increases rolling resistance by 10–15%
• A pressure reduction of 1.0 bar (typical: 1.8 instead of 2.8 bar) increases rolling resistance by 20–30%

Tire pressure (bar)	Deviation from the norm	Change in rolling resistance	Change in rolling resistance	Increased fuel consumption
2.8 (standard)	0	Base	0%
2.6	–0.2 bar	+4–6%	+0.2–0.3 l/100 km
2,3	–0.5 bar	+10–15%	+0.5–0.7 l/100 km
1.8	–1.0 bar	+20–30%	+1.0–1.5 l/100 km
3.0 (+0.2 bar)	+0.2 bar	–2–3%	–0.1–0.2 l/100 km

Insufficient pressure (inflated tires):

• Uneven wear - the edges of the tread wear out, the center remains
• Tire overheating due to increased deformation (dangerous on the highway)
• Worsening of handling and increased braking distance
• Reduction of tire life by 15-25%

Overpressure (underinflated tires):

• Wear only in the center of the tread
• Harder suspension, worse comfort
• Slight reduction in rolling resistance, but deterioration of grip
• Increased risk of damage from impacts on bumps

Check the pressure of cold tires at least once a month and before each long trip. The recommended values ​​are indicated on the sticker in the door opening or in the car's operating manual. Typically, this is 2.2-2.6 bar for the front wheels and 2.0-2.4 bar for the rear wheels, depending on the load.

With increased load (5 people + luggage), increase the pressure by 0.2-0.3 bar from the standard - this will improve both fuel efficiency and handling. Data on the effect of pressure: U.S. Department of Energy - Tire Pressure

Recommendations on tire manufacturers and models

Premium tire segment (best fuel efficiency)

• Michelin Energy Saver+ / Primacy 4+ - stable class A, excellent resource (up to 60,000 km)
• Continental EcoContact 6 - class A, best balance of efficiency and grip
• Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 2 - class A, strong point: wet grip

Middle segment of rubber (good balance of price/performance)

• Nokian Wetproof / Seasonproof - classes B–C, great for Scandinavian and Ukrainian conditions
• Pirelli Cinturato P7 - class B, good durability
• Hankook Ventus Prime 4 - Class B, Korean quality at a lower price

Budget segment of rubber (avoid classes E–G)

In the budget segment, you should focus on class C tires or better. Some options:

• Nexen N'Blue HD Plus - class C, one of the best in its price range
• Kumho Ecowing ES31 - class C, acceptable efficiency
• Ovation Vi-682 Ecovision - class C, minimum budget

All-season tires for those who do not want to change sets

• Michelin CrossClimate 2 - class B, the best all-season on the market
• Continental AllSeasonContact 2 - class B, excellent winter grip
• Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen-3 - class B, a good alternative

Segment	Recommended model	EU class	Rated price 205/55R16 (UAH/pc)
Premium summer	Michelin Primacy 4+	A	4,200 – 5,000
Average summer	Nokian Wetproof	B	3,000 – 3,700
Budget summer	Nexen N'Blue HD Plus	C	1,800 – 2,400
All season	Michelin CrossClimate 2	B	4,500 – 5,200
Winter premium	Continental WinterContact TS870	C	3,500 – 4,200
Winter Budget	Matador MP93 Nordicca	D	1,600 – 2,200

Choosing a tire by fuel efficiency class is one of the smartest decisions for a cost-conscious driver. The difference between classes A and F can be up to 7.5% in fuel consumption, which with intensive use translates into thousands of hryvnias every year.

• Rolling resistance is responsible for 20-30% of a car's fuel consumption
• Tires with a silica compound composition provide the lowest rolling resistance among common technologies
• Summer tires are on average 1-2 classes more efficient than winter counterparts
• Narrow tires are usually more economical than wide ones - even within the same EU class
• A pressure 0.5 bar below the norm can increase consumption by 0.5-0.7 l/100 km
• Premium Class A tires pay for themselves in 6-18 months depending on mileage

Optimal strategy: choose Class A or B tires according to the EU Label, maintain the recommended pressure and regularly check the tread condition. This will ensure minimal fuel costs, safety and maximum rubber resource.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

• Do Class A tires really save fuel, or is it just marketing?
  They really do. The EU Label classification is based on the standardized ISO 28580 test, which measures the rolling resistance coefficient on a laboratory drum. The difference between classes A and G is at least 7.5% in fuel consumption. Independent tests by Consumer Reports, TCS (Touring Club Schweiz) and ADAC confirm real savings of 0.3-0.6 l/100 km when moving from class C to A.
• Which tires are better for economy: narrow or wide?
  Narrow tires, as a rule, have lower rolling resistance and lower aerodynamic drag - that is, they are objectively more economical. For example, a 185/65 R15 tire will have lower fuel consumption than a 225/50 R17 of the same EU class. But it should be borne in mind that the car manufacturer recommends a certain size, and a significant deviation from it can affect safety.
• Is it worth buying expensive premium tires for the sake of fuel economy?
  It depends on the mileage. At 20,000+ km/year, the difference between classes A and C saves 1,500-3,000 UAH/year on fuel. If the premium for premium tires is 2,000-3,000 UAH per set, they pay for themselves in 1-2 seasons. With mileage up to 10,000 km/year, it is more appropriate to consider middle-segment tires of class B.
• How often should you check your tire pressure?
  At least once a month and before each trip of more than 200 km. The pressure should be checked on cold tires (before starting the trip or after driving no more than 2 km). Please note: the pressure decreases by ~0.1 bar when the air temperature drops by 10°C - so check more often in autumn/winter.
• Does tread wear affect fuel consumption?
  Yes, but it is ambiguous. Worn tires have less rubber mass in the contact patch, so rolling resistance is slightly reduced - sometimes a worn tire has better fuel efficiency than a new one of the same model. But at the same time, grip, especially on wet surfaces, and resistance to aquaplaning deteriorate significantly. Tires should be changed when the remaining tread depth is 2 mm (the minimum according to Ukrainian legislation is 1.6 mm, but the safe limit is 3 mm).
• All-season tires: is it worth switching to save money?
  All-season tires are comfortable, but rarely reach class A. The best models (Michelin CrossClimate 2, Continental AllSeasonContact 2) have class B, which is quite acceptable. If your mileage is more than 20,000 km/year, it is more profitable to have two sets: summer class A and winter class C - the total efficiency will be higher. With lower mileage, all-season tires are a smart choice.
• Does temperature affect fuel consumption through tires?
  Yes, and significantly. At temperatures below 0°C, rubber becomes stiffer, but winter tires are compensated for this temperature. For summer tires at -10°C, rolling resistance increases by 30-50% due to rubber freezing - which is why using summer tires in winter is dangerous and uneconomical. In general: each tire is designed for a certain temperature range, and it works most efficiently in it.
• Where can I check the EU Label class of a particular tire?
  The EU Label class can be checked on the manufacturer's official website or on the EU EPREL (European Product Registry for Energy Labelling) portal. The EPREL database contains all tires sold in the EU, with fuel efficiency, wet grip and noise classes.